As a true Tbilisi native (I’ve called four different neighborhoods home by now) it sounds very biased to say that Tbs is the best place to explore, but I can’t help the fact that it is. You have to trust me: I’ve been living abroad on-and-off since my teenage years, yet Tbilisi holidays still remain my favorite.
This appreciation reached new heights with three rounds of friends visiting me throughout last summer. The Georgian saying that guests are from god heavily influenced my hosting experience, getting me to re-discover and re-appreciate parts of our culture that I had considered archaic before. Being a heavily orthodox country, some traditions, such as that of the Georgian feast Supra, were associated with a conservative anti-western ideology for me, until I got to see them through the eyes of my guests this summer.
Other than being drenched in culture and feeling like a melting pot of the past and present, Tbilisi has this enticing multidimensional aspect to it that all my favorite cities share (RE: Aa explores Istanbul). You might start the night drinking beautifully crafted cocktails surrounded by baroque painted walls and end it in a fringe club nestled in an abandoned building pulsating with electronic music (while probably passing out on chacha, a very high-in alcohol Georgian vodka made out of grape remains).
Moreover, the relatively small size of the country makes it easy to get away from the city with it being an under 2 hour ride to reach the monumental mountains or awe-inspiring vineyards. If you plan on staying longer than a week (which I can guarantee you will want) you need to go to more remote regions. You could make a trip to the black sea coast ( I would recommend staying in Tsikhisdziri), and then continue on to the mountains, stopping in the magical Bakhmaro. If you’re more of a mountain person, you should go to Tusheti (if you can brave the road) or Svaneti, for adventures that will make you feel like you’re going back in time. I could go on and on, but I don’t want to bore you, so keep on reading for a (quasi-) full list of my favorite spots in Tbilisi and if you want to know more don’t hesitate to send me a DM @2440u <3
Stay
If you’re on the hunt for a truly unique stay, the array of hotels that have been popping up around the city are the definite go-to. If you’re on a budget, there’s plenty of options to chose from on Airbnb.
Blueberry Nights
As the name might suggest, Blueberry Nights feels straight out of a Wong Kar Wai movie. The attention to detail can be felt in every corner and each room is equipped with projectors and vinyl players. With its kitchen being the vibrant Lolita restaurant and its minutely curated lobby gift shop, Blueberry Nights is one of the most special stays you can experience in Tbilisi and beyond!
Fabrika
Whether you want a hostel room or a private room, Fabrika is the go to for young travellers looking to meet people. With its vibrant courtyard full of shops, restaurants, and bars, and its prime location in the Marjanishvili neighbourhood, Fabrika is the place to go if you’re looking for a vibrant and fun stay.
Eat
Sorry to break it to you, but the Georgian food scene is so much more than Khachapuri (the renowned cheese pastry) and Khinkali (Georgian soup dumplings). Tbilisi’s restaurant scene is full of mouth-watering modernized Georgian food restaurants, as well as real local classics serving unpretentious yet delectable food. Here’s the rundown of my go-to spots to eat in Tbilisi.
Keto & Kote
My favorite restaurant in Tbilisi. With their terrace that overlooks the city, it feels nothing short of a date night spot out of your favorite rom-com movie. The interior is purely beautiful, the wine selection is great and the chef Ramaz Gemiashvili’s take on Georgian food is novel yet grounded in tradition.
Ezo
The go-to spot to experience real Tbilisi. This welcoming garden restaurant in the heart of old Tbilisi, is sure to warm your heart up with its mouth watering food and great crowd.
Honoré
Another one of my favourites for Georgian food, with a spacious courtyard where you can order food from both Honoré and another of my favorites, Saghighino. Make sure to eat their Mtsvadi (Georgian meat bbq brochettes, probably one of the best in town), to try their selection of natural wines and have the pan-fried Khachapuri.
Shavi Lomi
Another of my favorite Georgian food spots with a very cute atmosphere and a nice terrace for warm evenings. Make sure to try their oyster mushrooms with tarragon.
Kikliko
Kikliko is the Georgian salty version of the French toast. A cute hole-in-the wall spot where you can have Georgian breakfast with a twist.
Rooms hotel
If you’re tired of eating Georgian food 24/7 and craving a good steak, Rooms Hotel is the go-to place. Make sure to check out its sisters, Stamba and Lolita just next door for dessert or post-dinner drinks.
Daphna
One of my favorite spots for Khinkali (traditional Georgian dumplings) in town. They’re open until 6AM on weekends, so you’re sure to satisfy your post-chacha food cravings.
Kakhelebi
Nothing fancy, but super local and tasty Georgian food. Great spot to hit for takeaway before setting out to a roadtrip.
Ethno Tsiskvili
I probably would have never ended up at this place if my guests hadn’t asked me to see Traditional Georgian dancing. While the Georgian ballet, Sukhishvilebi, were on holidays I got recommended this restaurant, which tbh feels like an alternate universe into which they distilled every bit of Georgian culture. Not classy, not tasteful, not the go-to food spot, but you’re sure to have a very fun time if you drink enough Chacha (Georgian version of Grappa) and witness a all-encompassing caricature of Georgian culture in this concert-dinner restaurant. If you are not lucky enough to end up at a Supra, this is your closest bet 😉
Osteria Ambrosiano
The place to go if you’re craving Italian food, they also have a delectable selection of wines.
Drink
If there is one thing we, Georgians, love is to drink, so it’s no surprise that the city is full of great bars. Georgians tend to go to clubs pretty late (around 3AM is the peak go-time) so some of these also double-down as pre-party spots. The great music and fun dance floors, make sure your dinner-to-club transition is as seamless as ever!
Success
First official Gay bar in Tbilisi with an interior as eclectic as its crowd.
Mutant Radio
A electronic music radio shed with a beautiful open bar. Go for drinks before hitting one of the clubs next door (Left Bank, Tes, Tbili Orgia).
Craft Wine
If you’re feeling in a classier mood and want to taste Georgian wines, Craft is your spot.
Unfound door
Indulge in the finely crafted cocktails while absorbing the history of the old townhouse with mesmerizing baroque painted walls.
Saamuri
Nestled in the courtyard of Fabrika, Saamuri is where all the cool-kid Georgian natural wine-makers stock their wines. Pro tip: keep an eye out for their food pop-ups!
Party
I might be biased, but no city’s nightlife compares to that of Tbilisi. With diverse tasteful music and energetic crowds everywhere you go, Tbilisi nightouts never disappoint. Other than the established classics, Mtkvarze, Café Gallery, Bassiani, and Khidi, Tbilisi boasts an array of new clubs that have become the go-to get together spots for the local crowd.
Left Bank
Left Bank is a great spot to discover local underground DJs and socialize in very rough-cool graffitied surroundings. Their recently opened Space One is a great, calmer, alternative to the bustling club space.
Aprili
The preferred going out spot after having a filling dinner at Honoré around the corner. Go there to listen to Georgian and international DJs and sip on some great cocktails.
Tbili Orgia
What started as a pop-up event series turned into a Tbilisi mainstay club-bar. From niche artist performances to trappy DJ sets Tbili Orgia is sure to surprise you. The name Tbili Orgia, quite literally means warm orgy (lol), but also Tbilisi, Georgia without the two first and last letters. The out-there name perfectly captures what the place is all about.
TES
The successor of the infamous drama bar, TES has managed to cement the local go-to club status even after huge dramas since its opening (pun intended). With a couple of different rooms (including not-so private dark rooms) and a cozy courtyard, TES is sure to satisfy anyone’s desires.
Shop
Shopping in Tbilisi is a IYKYK type of craft. Although the city boasts great spots selling local designers, international brands, and curated vintage garments, they are scattered around the city, making them hard to find without some guidance.
Archived Couture
The founder Luka started Archived as an online shop a few years ago, guided by his passion for vintage garments and archival fashion. His recently opened store in the Vera district, boasts one of the most unique vintage selections I have come across, starting from beautifully-tailored YSL gowns, and ending with timeless Ann Demeulemeester pieces.
Ieri Store
A designer concept store where you can find a great selection of established and up-coming Georgian designers. Ieris is nestled in an old wine factory, now refurbished to host restaurants, bars, and cultural happenings, so make sure to hang around the courtyard and grab a post-shopping drink.
They Said Books
One of my favorite coffee spots in town with an amazing selection of books from renowned niche publishers.
Le Chic Radical
By far my favorite Georgian jewelry brand, they also sell a great selection of perfumes.
Z12
If you can’t stop talking about Suns, Moons, Venuses, or whatever other planets you can have signs in, Z12 was created for you. Inspired by the founder, Elene Bokeria’s, zodiac painting collection, Z12 has become the go-to Tbilisi cool-kid brand. The made in Peru, designed in Georgia, T-Shirts are the perfect souvenir you can get for your friends and family, or for yourself for that matter 😉
Cloth Collective
A fairly recently established brand that makes very Tbilisi-cool printed garments, from tights to hoodies.
Reckless
A Gen-Z streetwear brand that boasts careless cool and has something to please anyone.
Dry Bridge
Flea Market full of gems from the past, be it film cameras or Soviet gas masks, the dry bridge is filled with curiosities to satiate any mind.
Culture
Tbilisi is a melting pot of cultures: it’s one of the few cities in the world with a mosque, synagogue and Christian church just 300 meters apart from each other. The culture of Tbilisi can be best felt by walking around and exploring the countless hallways, churches and bazaars of the old neighbourhoods of Sololaki, Abanotubani and Marjanishvili. Yet if you want a taste of the more contemporary culture, here are my recommendations.
National Gallery
Also known as the Blue Gallery, it is home to pieces from some of the most well-known Georgian artists such as Niko Pirosmani, definitely worth a visit!
The Why Not Gallery
A modern art gallery showcasing up-and-coming artists. They have a very nice gift shop where they collaborate with the artists they exhibit to create items ranging from silk scarfs to pillows.
LC Queisser
Probably the most interesting contemporary art gallery in Tbilisi supporting experimental and interdisciplinary art.
Sulphur Baths
The name Tbilisi is a variation of the word warm and comes from the legend of Georgian king Vakhtang Gorgasali who discovered warm sulfur springs while on a hunting expedition. So if you’re looking to go to the real roots of where the city comes from you have to make a trip to the Sulphur Baths in the Abanotubani quarter. Walk around the neighborhood and give a visit to the Narikala fortress up the hill before getting the ultimate post-tourism refresh while being scrubbed with Kisi (a traditional carpet used as brush.)
Day Trips
With less than a 2 hour ride to reach the mountains or vineyards, day, or weekend, trips are a must when visiting Tbilisi. If you’re staying for longer, I definitely recommend going to Svaneto, Tusheti, Tsikhisdziri and/or Bakhmaro, for a true taste of Georgia and its nature.
Kazbegi
The scenic village of Kazbegi nestled under the namesake glacier, is ground to the beautiful Alpine retreat of the Rooms hotel chain. Being fairly close to the city makes it the perfect spot for a relaxing weekend getaway.
Kakheti
The oldest wine in the world was discovered in Georgia, so it would be a pity to visit the country without getting to immerse in its raw wine culture. Luckily the biggest wine region, Kakheti, is just under two hours drive from the city. Communal hotel, with its cozy rooms and charming pool, is the perfect place to pass the night.
If you made it by the end of this guide, you should have more or less a definitive overview, or a starting point for diggers like me, of how to spend your time when visiting Tbilisi. If you have any recommendations or questions feel free to DM me on instagram @2440u or send me an email at anastasia@doubleamagazine.com
Xx, Anastasia
