To recover from my previous vacations and escape the 12-degree misery that was July in Amsterdam, I decided to embark on a little adventure to Marseille. When I visit France, I usually end up in Paris or some remote village by the sea, but rarely anything in between.
I don’t know about your circles, but everyone around me has been raving about Marseille. They return with the biggest smiles, declaring it their favorite French city and vowing to return soon. Naturally curious, I decided to see what all the fuss was about, and I have to say, I completely understand their enthusiasm.
What I appreciate most about the places I travel to is being in a rich, multifaceted environment that inspires me. That’s one of the reasons I felt so at home in Marseille—you have stunning nature, countless beaches, the exciting hustle and bustle of a city, an international crowd, and endless opportunities to shop, dine, and explore. It’s a true melting pot.
What I took away from my trip is that you can truly choose your own pace and how you want to experience the city. I left feeling inspired and grateful.
I don’t want to ramble on about why this trip was so important to me, but keep reading for a rundown of the places that made my time here so special. If you have any questions or remarks, feel free to DM me @run.awa.y xx
Guide by Awa Anne
Cover Visual by Anastasia Gviniachvili
Eat
Figure
You will always catch me with shared plates, sunset, and wine. This restaurant feels like an atmospheric little nook in the wall, with an extensive wine list and small seasonal plates. We recommend the Tarama and the oysters. After dinner, feel free to take a little stroll in the Notre Dame Area.
Bistronomie Yasemine
We went to this Restaurant after a long day at the beach and could not have asked for a better hearty and delicious meal. Bistronomie Yasemine is a Syrian-Palestinian spot in the heart of the city and a must-visit when you are in town. Definitely get a table on the terrace and try their mixed plates to get a little taste of everything (BIG BONUS: I had the best pickle of my life here).
Entre Terre et Mer
Eating seafood by the ocean is probably one of my top five vacation activities. Entre Terre et Mer is a charming little restaurant in Marseille’s old town, offering great value for money. So, bring your friends and indulge in a simple, crisp white wine, their oysters, and seafood platters.
Ziguinchor
Being half-Senegalese myself, I am always so happy when I get to discover Senegalese spots, that make me feel a tiny bit more at home. I strongly urge you to try the Yassa, Thieb and have some Bissap (hisbiscus juice) on the side with it :))
Chez Yassine
Chez Yassine offers an authentic taste of Tunisian cuisine. The warm and welcoming atmosphere makes it perfect for a cozy and budget-friendly meal. Don’t miss their couscous and tagine dishes, which are cooked to perfection and bursting with flavor. My favs were the brick à l’oeuf and the merguez.
Planète Couscous
This spot serves amazing Moroccan food in the heart of the city at an incredible price. Planète Couscous is perfect for a delicious and filling lunch, all for under 20 euros. I highly recommend trying their Tajines.
Poissonnerie Kennedy
Located in the Malmousque area, Poissoniere Kennedy is a dream come true. The focus here is on fresh, local seafood, and the dishes really let the natural flavors shine. It’s charming, delicious, and a must-visit for any seafood lover.
Livingston
From the atmosphere to the staff to the simple yet innovative food, Livingston is a must-visit when you’re in Marseille. Bring your girls for a fun sunset dinner date. I highly recommend trying the flatbread with garlic stracciatella and the grilled peaches.
La Meulerie
This is hands down the best best cheese shop in town with all that your inner French might desire. Also, their grilled cheese sandwiches are top tier.
Mercato x Winesucker
This fairly new spot is a wine bar and vegetarian restaurant with a beautiful atmosphere, refreshing dishes, and lovely lovely people all around you. In my opinion the perfect restaurant to take yourself on a solo date on.
La Ola
La Ola is known for its extensive natural wine list and eclectic, ever-changing menu, thanks to their rotating chefs-in-residence throughout the year.
Bikini
You had me at the white vermouth cocktail, beachfront views, and tinned fish.
Le Metropole
No meal is complete without a sweet treat, and nothing screams summer vacation more than getting ice cream. Le Metropole Vieux Port is the perfect spot for that. Their ice cream is delicious, with a variety of flavors to choose from (I loved the black sesame and coffee). Grab a cone and enjoy it while soaking up the views of the bustling Vieux Port.
Bakeries
Pain Pain!
Best croissant in Marseille! Case closed.
Ferments
Ferments Bakery is committed to an eco-friendly approach, prioritizing local and short supply chains. They sell delicious sourdough breads made from organic and small-scale farming, wonderful treats, and specialty coffee.
Pompe
Founded by Carlotta With, Pompe is a charming little bakery where you can truly feel the love and care put into every detail. If you’re in the area, be sure to grab one of their stunningly simple baked goods.
Bricoleurs de Douceurs
Bricoleurs de Douceurs is a must-visit patisserie in the heart of the city, known for its innovative and exquisite desserts. Try their signature éclairs or seasonal fruit tarts.
Coffee
Deep
Deep is a specialty coffee shop and roaster in the old town. They serve a delicious flat white, and the ambiance is perfect. For me, Deep is the ideal spot to start your day. Bring a book, grab your journal, and ease into your morning at your own pace.
Brûlerie Möka
Brûlerie Möka is a small, family-run specialty coffee shop dedicated to roasting their own beans and perfecting the craft of coffee. Stop by, chat with the lovely owners, and enjoy one of their delicious homemade pastries.
Petrin Couchette
Not only do they serve delicious coffee, but they also offer amazing breakfasts, sandwiches, and pastries. Our favorites were the flat white, the cookie, and the focaccia sandwiches. It’s the perfect pre-beach pit stop.
Drink
La Traverse
La Traverse is a stunning space owned by the same people as Ivresse, making it the perfect daytime hangout spot. Whether you’re in the mood for a great cup of coffee, a few bites for lunch, exploring their temporary exhibitions, or just letting your mind wander, La Traverse has you covered
Apotek
Right in the heart of Marseille, Apotek is a cozy, intimate spot where drinks are crafted with care. Their seasonal menu features unique combinations that might surprise you, but they always hit the spot.
Ivresse Cave
Ivresse Cave, located just minutes from Longchamp Park, is one of the coolest natural wine cellars in Marseille. Housed in a former workshop, this spot offers a relaxed, candlelit atmosphere and a fantastic wine list focusing on Central and Eastern Europe.
Le Café de L’Abbaye
Café de l’Abbaye is a beloved spot in Marseille, known for its relaxed vibe. Consider this your friendly neighborhood bar to kick off your night. Stop by for an evening aperitif and soak up the setting sun.
Party
Friche la Belle de Mai
Friche la Belle de Mai is an all-year-round hub for life, creation, and culture. This art and culture factory is the perfect venue for parties and events. Just check out their lineups when in town.
Cours Julien
Cours Julien is Marseille’s vibrant and eclectic district, renowned for its bars, galleries, and bustling atmosphere. Just show up with a group of friends and hop from one place to the next.
Tue.lamour
One of the best recommendations I got when visiting Marseille was just to check out the local collectives and just see what their programming is that week, and the tue.lamour parties had such a fun atmosphere and good music.
Shop
Ensemble
Ensemble Bookstore is a thoughtfully curated space dedicated to books, editions, and photography. Curated by the renowned publisher and design studio Loose Joints, it offers a unique selection of works
Pièce à Part
Pièce à Part is a charming bookshop specializing in art and photography from small publishers. Once you step inside, you’ll never want to leave. The inviting atmosphere draws you in, encouraging you to explore their extensive and carefully curated selection.
COMMON
This vintage store was literally the find of my trip! While casually strolling through the city on a little shopping spree, we stumbled upon this gem and ended up staying for ages. The more we looked, the more treasures we found—think Cop Copine, Mugler, and more, all at amazing prices. Bonus: The owner was the sweetest!
Kitsh Vintage
Kitsh Vintage is a creative and eco-friendly vintage shop. Stepping into this store made my 12-year-old self scream (literally, out loud). The eclectic and welcoming interior makes it the perfect place to play dress-up with friends.
Jogging
Jogging is a curated retailer where you can discover up-and-coming designers alongside established brands like Raf Simons and JW Anderson. It’s also the perfect spot to buy a bottle of natural wine, explore unique fragrances and homeware, or simply enjoy a cup of coffee.
Culture
Cité Radieuse
Cité Radieuse, designed by the legendary architect Le Corbusier, is an iconic building in Marseille. This UNESCO World Heritage site is a masterpiece of modernist architecture, offering residential apartments, a rooftop terrace, and even a hotel. Exploring Cité Radieuse gives you a glimpse into Le Corbusier’s visionary urban design
Galerie Anna-Tschopp
Since it first opened in 2005, Galerie Anna-Tschopp has aimed to bring nationally and internationally distinguished artists together with emerging talents, nurturing the future of art in Marseille. The gallery focuses on quality over quantity, hosting ‘Focus’ exhibitions to give emerging artists a platform and introduce them to the local art scene.
Musée Cantini
Musée Cantini is one of Marseille’s largest modern art galleries. Housed in a stunning 17th-century mansion, the museum features an extensive collection of modern art and temporary exhibitions.
Beaches
Here are some favorite beaches in the city that are easily accessible. However, I highly recommend taking excursions to explore the rest of Aix-en-Provence and the nearby Calanques
Malmousque
Malmousque Beach is a hidden gem in Marseille, offering a serene escape with its crystal-clear waters and rocky coves. This picturesque spot is perfect for a peaceful swim or a relaxing afternoon by the sea, away from the city’s hustle and bustle.
Plage du Prophète
Plage du Prophète is one of Marseille’s most popular beaches, known for its sandy shore and family-friendly atmosphere. Ideal for swimming and sunbathing, this beach is a favorite spot for both locals and tourists.
Plage de Maldormé
Plage de Maldormé is a charming and secluded beach in Marseille, known for its rocky shoreline and serene atmosphere.
And there you have it dear readers, a little overview of how I spent my time in Marseille earlier this month. I am sure you’ll have just as much fun as I did. If you have any recommendations, questions, or spot that you miss in here, feel free to DM @doubleamgazine on Instagram.
Xx, Awa
